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| nirvasch |
Feb 26 2010, 03:37 AM
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#1
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Member ![]() Group: Members Posts: 57 Joined: 4-July 09 Member No.: 7,779 |
Since I started painting this newest commission piece - I'll be showing them a lot - I decided to prepare a complete tutorial on how I paint my slaaneshi minis. Many people asked me about my purple - so now you can do it by yourself following this tut
Ok Day 1 1. Assembly, moldlines cleaning , gluing torsos and priming Ok as said - got rid of mold lines ( i must say that GW is getting better and better with their plastic kits - almost none moldlines were visible on these models) , primed with black , and then vertically primed with white - pics don't show it good - i spray some white paint from above - so that the shadowy areas are darker and the areas most exposed to light are brighter. Also glued some plastic to termies' legs - so that I won't touch the mini itself with my fingers while painting (this prevents the sweat from my fingers to get onto the mini ) ![]() ![]() OK 2. Paints and palette. For the armour I will be using: Violet (I use generic artist's paints - you can take liche purple) Warlock Purple Sunburst Yellow Smoke Ink White Enchanted Blue Hawk Turqoise Glaze Medium I also use a wet palette - this allows me to lower the usage of paints keeping them moist all the time I paint. For such a palette I use a piece of sponge - natural one is best - and some baking paper. The paper doesn't absorb water so it's ideal for keeping the paints 'fresh' ![]() 3. Base colour I believe that this is the most important part when it comes to painting miniatures - a solid basecoat gives you a good start to painting. I apply 1 thick layer of paint , and then a few layers of glazes with the same colour , untill I'm sure that the colour is exactly as I wish it to be , and the black/white base cannot be seen underneath. Also the layers should be as smooth as possible. Here I applied Violet to the whole armour. (missed some spots , but painted them later on ![]() ![]() 4. Shading Since the armour of my slaaneshi termies will be in bright, warm colours I decided to shade it with cold blues. First I applied watered down Enchanted Blue to the recesses and the parts of the armour that will be darker, then added another wash of Hawk Turqoise. Enchanted Blue is darker than Hawk Turqoise so if it comes to shading - you always apply darker colour first (if you want to get a similar effect ![]() ![]() -------------------- |
| nirvasch |
Feb 26 2010, 03:38 AM
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#2
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Member ![]() Group: Members Posts: 57 Joined: 4-July 09 Member No.: 7,779 |
5. Highlight I
Ok now I applied the base colour mixed with glaze medium to remove those annoying blue stains. Then started slowly highlighting in about 5 layers mixing gradually Violet with Warlock Purple and diluting the mix with water and glaze medium. Remember to remove the excessive amount of paint from your brush with a paper towel - I was rather glazing to achieve a smooth blend here than painting with wet paint. Applied many thin layers of almost transparent paint. Start with 1/4 Warlock Purple to 3/4 Violet and add some water + glaze medium. Highlight up to pure Warlock purple. (I highlight everything 'going' to the edges of the mini) ![]() ![]() 6. Highlight II When finished with Warlock Purple similarily as before I started adding Sunburst Yellow to purple - also with water and glaze medium. I know this is kinda strange - first you will get a strange 'dirty' orange - don't worry - apply it just to the edges , after a few layers , when you come closer to a pure yellow it will look better I used pure yellow just for fine highlights on the edges. ![]() ![]() 6. Destroy what you have done so far! (just joking Ok now it's the funniest thing - Wash or rather glaze all the armour pieces with Smoke Ink - remember it must be semi-transparent - so dilute it heavily with water and remove the excessive amount on a paper towel!!! Apply untill it looks good ![]() ![]() At the end apply small white dots to the tips/edges of armour. E VOILA! Going to make myself dinner (hmm maybe spaghetti) and will start doing golden NMM Any comments ?? Requests?? -------------------- |
| Winter |
Feb 26 2010, 09:10 AM
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#3
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Member ![]() Group: Veteran Members Posts: 1,533 Joined: 18-May 09 From: Central Coast, NSW Member No.: 7,491 |
When you talk about smoke ink you are referring to the "paint" made by Tamiya right?
-------------------- *wanders into the room with a south american quadruped* who ordered the dramallama? Good Traders Reputation - 20 as of 6/7/10 Winter's WTS/WTB Thread - Currently nothing to sell or buy. My Wolves Tale - A Modelling diary with the brothers of Fenris + a few other projects |
| nirvasch |
Feb 26 2010, 09:41 AM
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#4
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Member ![]() Group: Members Posts: 57 Joined: 4-July 09 Member No.: 7,779 |
I prefere vallejo - tamiya is alcohol/oil based and eats your brushes away...
This post has been edited by nirvasch: Feb 26 2010, 09:42 AM -------------------- |
| Waggerz |
Feb 26 2010, 01:51 PM
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#5
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Member ![]() Group: Veteran Members Posts: 481 Joined: 30-October 08 From: Watsonia Member No.: 6,354 |
How long did it take you to get to that stage with one model?
Looks like a great base to start on. Also how would you go about fixing any errors caused by painting the details later? I only ask because with stupid fingers like mine its bound to happen.... -------------------- Alpha Legion - http://www.wargamerau.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=71055
"A person is not good, based solely on their actions. An element of choice must be involved. If people are not given the choice to do wrong, then they are not given the choice to do right. If they are not given the choice to do right, then they cannot be good people. They’re merely robots." |
| nirvasch |
Feb 26 2010, 07:19 PM
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#6
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Member ![]() Group: Members Posts: 57 Joined: 4-July 09 Member No.: 7,779 |
Hmmm - about 1.5 hours for the armour. if you'll be careful enough you won't mess it up - if you splatter some paint over something you already painted, take a dry brush, some clean water, and try to remove the error- if you are fast enough you will succeed
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| nirvasch |
Feb 27 2010, 02:25 AM
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#7
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Member ![]() Group: Members Posts: 57 Joined: 4-July 09 Member No.: 7,779 |
Ok Gold NMM
For golden nmm I use: Snakebite Leather Black White 1. Base colour Mix some Snakebite with Black - you should get a dark green colour. Apply this colour to the areas that will be gold. ![]() ![]() ![]() 2. Highlight I Start highlighting the colour you have applied up to pure Snakebite leather - the best way is to set 1 point where the lights reflect, and highlight to that point - I chose the front left side of the model. ![]() 3. Highlight II When you reach pure Snakebite , start adding white paint ![]() Up to pure white on the edges ![]() ![]() -------------------- |
| nirvasch |
Feb 27 2010, 02:25 AM
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#8
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Member ![]() Group: Members Posts: 57 Joined: 4-July 09 Member No.: 7,779 |
4. Shading
Glaze everything with heavily diluted snakebite leather - this will give a crispy, warm look to the nmm - don't worry that it will turn the white highlights to yellow - it should be this way. Then highlight again with pure white. ( the edges) You can repeat this step as long as you like - the more glazes and highlights - the better the nmm looks. ![]() 5. Paint up the rest of nmm pieces ![]() ![]() 6. Fine details I painted the sash and cord on his right foot using Hawk Turqoise Vallejo Model Colour Deck Tan White Base colour - Turqoise + Deck Tan , highlights with Deck Tan , and later white ![]() Ok - it's for now. I'm preparing the base and finishing arms at the moment, will try to update later today. -------------------- |
| Darth.Crag |
Feb 28 2010, 08:44 AM
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#9
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Member ![]() Group: Members Posts: 265 Joined: 7-January 05 From: Sydney Member No.: 754 |
Looking Great.
Keep up the good work -------------------- Darth.Crag
Founding and Active Member of Area 37 Gaming Club Contact us at area_37@live.com.au or on our WargamerAU Forum. Win - Loss - Draw Daemonic Legion new army in progress. 0-0-0 Flesh Tearers new army in progress.0-0-0 Mordor tide new army in progress.0-0-0 |
| nirvasch |
Mar 1 2010, 09:12 AM
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#10
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Member ![]() Group: Members Posts: 57 Joined: 4-July 09 Member No.: 7,779 |
OK - tomorrow will write everything - for now wip pics - need to glue the helmet - am too tired today.
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() What do you guys think ?? -------------------- |
| Kosick |
Mar 1 2010, 11:24 AM
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#11
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Member ![]() Group: Veteran Members Posts: 329 Joined: 19-November 04 From: Townsville, North QLD Member No.: 173 |
Dude, its wicked. The NMM and the armour scheme work really well and it was definitely worth the time.
But I think that having the same purple scheme on the weapons (bolter blade and the power axe) as on the armour is not that good. Its a bit too much purple, looks like the model could use a third minor colour. Like a green or turqoise, or light blue. Something that would give more contrast to the armour. The base is great too. |
| nirvasch |
Mar 1 2010, 05:44 PM
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#12
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Member ![]() Group: Members Posts: 57 Joined: 4-July 09 Member No.: 7,779 |
Damn, think will bend my will and repaint the weapons if a few more people tell me
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| sagan |
Mar 1 2010, 07:51 PM
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#13
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![]() Member Group: Support Members Posts: 780 Joined: 15-September 07 Member No.: 4,501 |
Damn, think will bend my will and repaint the weapons if a few more people tell me I must say if the blades were done in a similar colour to the sash (the blue) they would probably jump out more. i like them as is, but i do think its a bit much. -------------------- Inquisitor? He asked "Whats is that like some kind of remembrancer? - Quoted from the Wolf Lord of the 13th Company
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| radle |
Mar 1 2010, 10:08 PM
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#14
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Member Group: Support Members Posts: 1,090 Joined: 17-May 07 From: Canberra Member No.: 4,091 |
Damn, think will bend my will and repaint the weapons if a few more people tell me Yeah, the purple looks great on the armour, but a contrast for the weapons would be nice. Beautiful work. I always get mad when I hear people say "it's easy, just do 5 layers" -------------------- Army: Eldar
Mike's Tip of the Day: There's more than one way to skin a cat. My favourite is superglue and an electric toothbrush. WTB:[b] 2nd ed banshee, scorpion and dire avnger exarchs. Wraithsword. Pay It Forward: [b]Have: 3rd ed banshee, no arm; 4th ed banshee exarch weapons; 2nd ed rules & counters; 2nd ed eldar in general |
| nirvasch |
Mar 3 2010, 07:59 AM
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#15
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Member ![]() Group: Members Posts: 57 Joined: 4-July 09 Member No.: 7,779 |
Done
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() 4 more on the workstation - starting to paint a Juggernaut no to get tired with those Will upload all the tuts tomorrow -------------------- |
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| Lo-Fi Version | Time is now: 10th September 2010 - 04:04 AM |