Full Version: Wattyl Matt Estapol.....
O.k, I recently picked up a can from the store, on recommendations from a friend, but after I used it it clogged up and would'nt spray. Now I bought 2 cans, so was this just a freak out, or do I need to do some sort of special nozzle care that i'm not aware of?
after your finished with it, turn it upside down and let it spray out until it goes clear... done...
Yep, Spektre's absolutely right - if you don't clear the nozzle after use you will have a blockage.
mine blocks up frequently, but at $8.95 a can, who cares!
Like everyone has said above...If you go to a specialty paint store, you can also buy spare nozzles at fairly cheap prices...keep a few spare!
Is this stuff a replacement for varnish?? Is it as good/non glossy as GW's ??
Yes, it is an awesome, awesome varnish, spray in thin coats, not too heavily. Never comes out greyish or cloudy.
Compareable to Testors dullcoat, maybe not as good, but a lot less pricey, and easier to find.
Compareable to Testors dullcoat, maybe not as good, but a lot less pricey, and easier to find.
Well that's odd because I'm a devout on the Wattyl stuff and I've never had clogging issues at all.
It's definitely 'teh shit' and my weapon of choice when varnishing my models now - as good as the big brand names for my 2 cents, and less than half the price for most of them.
Bunnings stocks the stuff for under $9 a can.
After using Humbrol, Testors and GW sprays in the past I gotta admit, they really don't have anything on the Wattyl stuff that I can really see - maybe the Testors is a slightly more matt finish, but really, when the Wattyl stuff is about $6 a can cheaper, why would you even bother?
I've used the Wattyl stuff for about 6 months now... this little chappy was sealed with it too :
See? It's great stuff!!!!
It's definitely 'teh shit' and my weapon of choice when varnishing my models now - as good as the big brand names for my 2 cents, and less than half the price for most of them.
Bunnings stocks the stuff for under $9 a can.
After using Humbrol, Testors and GW sprays in the past I gotta admit, they really don't have anything on the Wattyl stuff that I can really see - maybe the Testors is a slightly more matt finish, but really, when the Wattyl stuff is about $6 a can cheaper, why would you even bother?
I've used the Wattyl stuff for about 6 months now... this little chappy was sealed with it too :
See? It's great stuff!!!!
Is it more of a satin finish?
It is a matt finish just not quiet a matt finish as Testors Dull coat.
Dm is right as are the others, it is very good and very economical.
This applies to spray cans in general, just good practice.
You must turn it upside down and let it spray out until it goes clear...
Enjoy Australian made.
Also look out for Wattyl Superetch black primer. It think the brand has changed names to Spray Mate Etch primer. It chemically bonds with the metal, so it will adhere to the metal very well and makes a very good surface to paint on.
I tried to get them to sponsor Leviathan but couldn't interest them. Still it is Australian made and a very good product
Dm is right as are the others, it is very good and very economical.
This applies to spray cans in general, just good practice.
You must turn it upside down and let it spray out until it goes clear...
Enjoy Australian made.
Also look out for Wattyl Superetch black primer. It think the brand has changed names to Spray Mate Etch primer. It chemically bonds with the metal, so it will adhere to the metal very well and makes a very good surface to paint on.
I tried to get them to sponsor Leviathan but couldn't interest them. Still it is Australian made and a very good product
I perfer the Wattyl Satin Estapol its not as matt and it gives a nice finish if you want a slight gloss to your model.
I don't like any gloss at all, unless its on gems or somesuch that should be glossy.
I'm surprised that Big Red hasn't popped uo in this thread yet.
Wattyl is reasonably flat but not as good as dullcote. Having said that Wattyl is a varnish and sealant meant to take abuse while the dullcote is more for display pieces.
You have to remember to keep to multiple thin coats. It can go yellowish if you flood the miniature.
R
Wattyl is reasonably flat but not as good as dullcote. Having said that Wattyl is a varnish and sealant meant to take abuse while the dullcote is more for display pieces.
You have to remember to keep to multiple thin coats. It can go yellowish if you flood the miniature.
R
QUOTE
I'm surprised that Big Red hasn't popped uo in this thread yet.
Hehehehe.....
I read it late last night and at that point, what more could I say that hadn't been stated already?
But now, in the light of day and after having some sleep, my brain is functioning more at a normal level....
I use Wattyl to finish all my minis, even my GD entries. It's great. Easy to find - Bunnings, Mitre10 etc. The matt varnish isn't 100% matt - slightly satin IMO but it's more matt than the Satin varnish. For me, it protects the minis from average wear and tear that a normal gamer will do. From a painting perspective, it protects the paintwork and also ties all the painting together. What I mean by that is: if you've used several different mediums to paint your minis (paint, inks, what-ever) you may end up with shiny areas (from the inks) and matt areas (from the paint) - Wattyl gives you a final, consistent , protective coat for your mini.
The nozzles can clog up but if you invert the can and spray the residual varnish out, you shouldn't have a problem. I even go to the extent of cleaning the nozzle thoroughly with paint thinners to make sure its clean and unblocked.
Care does need to be taken when it comes to the amount of spray in each coat. As stated already, several thin coats is heaps better than one thick one. If you spray too much on in a single layer, you may end up with a yellowish finish - especially on light colours e.g. whites, light greys etc - thin layers is the answer to that prob.
Testors Dull Cote is very matt. That's fine if you like that finish but be aware that it may subtley change your highlights and make the finished mini look slightly different. Once again, as stated, it's a hard product to find, is small in quantity and more expensive than Wattyl. Don't get me wrong.... it's good stuff but Wattyl is easy to find, cheaper and more of it.
QUOTE
Also look out for Wattyl Superetch black primer. It think the brand has changed names to Spray Mate Etch primer. It chemically bonds with the metal, so it will adhere to the metal very well and makes a very good surface to paint on.
I have used this and found it really good - more expensive than a basic Flat Black spraycan but still cheaper than GW Chaos Black. Dries quickly. Haven't used it on plastics yet but does a great job on metals.
I use the brush-on version, and haven't had any problems with it yet 
Another way to avoid clogging the spraycans is to spray en masse - wait until there are lots of figures to varnish, so you only need to use the can in a couple of spraying sessions... handy if you're painting whole armies of models.
Another way to avoid clogging the spraycans is to spray en masse - wait until there are lots of figures to varnish, so you only need to use the can in a couple of spraying sessions... handy if you're painting whole armies of models.
Don't all varnishes subtly change the finish of the miniature though? All the ones I've used have changed the highlights slightly.
Has anyone tried a light protective coat of wattyl followed by testors?
Has anyone tried a light protective coat of wattyl followed by testors?
QUOTE(Zordana)
Don't all varnishes subtly change the finish of the miniature though? All the ones I've used have changed the highlights slightly.
Has anyone tried a light protective coat of wattyl followed by testors?
Has anyone tried a light protective coat of wattyl followed by testors?
Always happens.
What we see as color is reflected light being altered by the surface of what we are looking at. Varnishing something changes that interaction with the light and therefore changes how we percieve the colour.
I've used dual layers of varnish inthe past but always a first coat of gloss for strength then a matt coat so it doesn't look like a toy.. :roll:
R
Yeah I usually use a gloss coat before hand. Im just wondering if anyone has tried using Testors over Wattyl, though?
Wattyl sounds really protective, but the yellowing and thickness might be an issue for me... so im wondering if a light coat of wattyl and then testors to dullcoat would be good.
Wattyl sounds really protective, but the yellowing and thickness might be an issue for me... so im wondering if a light coat of wattyl and then testors to dullcoat would be good.
I think you will find the wattyl is non yellowing now. At least that is what they now advise.
The alternative is the varnishes the artist use.
I've read in the Matisse black book that artist now coat their paintings with a water based varnish available in gloss, satin or matt.
Once this is fully dry they coat it in a solvent based varnish.
Say 10-20 years later when the painting is covered in grime, they remove the solvent based varnish with turps, taking away all the grime. The water based varnish protects the painting from this cleaning process.
They later recoat the painting again with a fresh solvent based varnish, restoring the painting to its original vibrant colours.
Note water based varnishes start milky white and dry clear.
Now I think there must be something here we can use to restore our old miniatures.
I will find out what varnishes matisse recommend for this process and get back to you.
The alternative is the varnishes the artist use.
I've read in the Matisse black book that artist now coat their paintings with a water based varnish available in gloss, satin or matt.
Once this is fully dry they coat it in a solvent based varnish.
Say 10-20 years later when the painting is covered in grime, they remove the solvent based varnish with turps, taking away all the grime. The water based varnish protects the painting from this cleaning process.
They later recoat the painting again with a fresh solvent based varnish, restoring the painting to its original vibrant colours.
Note water based varnishes start milky white and dry clear.
Now I think there must be something here we can use to restore our old miniatures.
I will find out what varnishes matisse recommend for this process and get back to you.
QUOTE
Say 10-20 years later when the painting is covered in grime, they remove the solvent based varnish with turps, taking away all the grime. The water based varnish protects the painting from this cleaning process.
See, I would have thought that the turps would eat the water-based varnish too, based on my experience with turps anyway...
Woo, did my entire 2k Ogre army this arvo, looks absolutly brilliant!!
Two-Varnish Finish System
This approach to finishing off an acrylic work is universally recommended by conservators the world over. More and more, the larger galleries are requiring their artists to use it.
Firstly, one or two coats of water-based acrylic varnish such as MM 7 Polymer Gloss Varnish & Gloss Medium is applied to the work then, when thoroughly dry, a coat of removable solvent-based varnish such as MM 14 Final Varnish Gloss Finish is used to finish off the work. Using a removable varnish allows this varnish to be stripped off, taking with it years of accumulated airborne rubbish, then a fresh coat applied. Because both of these varnishes are acrylic, they have the flexibility and elasticity to withstand the constant movement and expansion and contraction of most substrates. Therefore, these varnishes will not crack or show signs of stress as they age, neither will they yellow with age and they will help to protect the work from the destructive effects of ultraviolet light.
Step 1. Water-Based Varnish : A water-based acrylic varnish (such as MM7 Polymer Gloss Varnish and Gloss Medium or MM6 Polymer Matt Varnish) affords the work it covers substantial resistance to physical and chemical attack; however, this varnish is not completely impervious. Water-based varnishes dry by evaporation, thus the evaporating water can leave microscopic capillary holes in the varnish, which allow the paint to breath and cure. Allowing the paint to cure is of benefit; however, the small holes which are left behind have two potential drawbacks.
The first is that of allowing water back under the surface of the varnish. This will not affect the paint or varnish chemically (as long as both the paint and varnish have cured). However, when the acrylic and water are combined, their differences in refractive index mean they may look translucent or white. This may, in turn, produce cloudiness in the varnish over the work. This is only likely to occur when the work is literally soaking in water for a great length of time. Removing the water and applying an indirect warm dry heat can usually reverse this cloudiness (providing the varnish was cured prior to exposure to the water).
The second problem is that of dirt and grime catching in these holes. It is very easy for airborne rubbish to catch in the tiny holes which may, in tropical climates, lead to the increased chance of bacteria and mould growing in these areas.
However, in the majority of cases, the water-based varnish will be sufficient. This varnish alone is most certainly better protection for the paint than nothing at all.
Leave at least 48 hours for the water-based varnish to dry before applying Step 2.
Step 2. Solvent-Based Varnish : It has been found that by applying a removable final finish varnish such as MM14 Final Varnish Gloss Finish (turps-based) or MM15 Matt Varnish (turps-based) after the water-based varnish, conservators are able to easily clean and repair the work. When the work is to be cleaned, the final varnish can be redissolved in mineral turpentine; the water-based varnish helps to protect the paint during the removal of the original final varnish. Then a new coat of final varnish is applied over the clean original water-based varnish.
This process is recommended for those artists seeking the best long-term results from their materials and most certainly recommended for exterior mural work.
****
Here is the web site link for information on varnishing and the types of varnishes available.
http://www.matisse.com.au/pages/varnish.htm
****
Getting back to Wattyl, I've used wattyl products for over 20 years. Great product. Easy to use, and more readily available then Dull coat which seems to go through periods of drought (hard to obtain)
regards
This approach to finishing off an acrylic work is universally recommended by conservators the world over. More and more, the larger galleries are requiring their artists to use it.
Firstly, one or two coats of water-based acrylic varnish such as MM 7 Polymer Gloss Varnish & Gloss Medium is applied to the work then, when thoroughly dry, a coat of removable solvent-based varnish such as MM 14 Final Varnish Gloss Finish is used to finish off the work. Using a removable varnish allows this varnish to be stripped off, taking with it years of accumulated airborne rubbish, then a fresh coat applied. Because both of these varnishes are acrylic, they have the flexibility and elasticity to withstand the constant movement and expansion and contraction of most substrates. Therefore, these varnishes will not crack or show signs of stress as they age, neither will they yellow with age and they will help to protect the work from the destructive effects of ultraviolet light.
Step 1. Water-Based Varnish : A water-based acrylic varnish (such as MM7 Polymer Gloss Varnish and Gloss Medium or MM6 Polymer Matt Varnish) affords the work it covers substantial resistance to physical and chemical attack; however, this varnish is not completely impervious. Water-based varnishes dry by evaporation, thus the evaporating water can leave microscopic capillary holes in the varnish, which allow the paint to breath and cure. Allowing the paint to cure is of benefit; however, the small holes which are left behind have two potential drawbacks.
The first is that of allowing water back under the surface of the varnish. This will not affect the paint or varnish chemically (as long as both the paint and varnish have cured). However, when the acrylic and water are combined, their differences in refractive index mean they may look translucent or white. This may, in turn, produce cloudiness in the varnish over the work. This is only likely to occur when the work is literally soaking in water for a great length of time. Removing the water and applying an indirect warm dry heat can usually reverse this cloudiness (providing the varnish was cured prior to exposure to the water).
The second problem is that of dirt and grime catching in these holes. It is very easy for airborne rubbish to catch in the tiny holes which may, in tropical climates, lead to the increased chance of bacteria and mould growing in these areas.
However, in the majority of cases, the water-based varnish will be sufficient. This varnish alone is most certainly better protection for the paint than nothing at all.
Leave at least 48 hours for the water-based varnish to dry before applying Step 2.
Step 2. Solvent-Based Varnish : It has been found that by applying a removable final finish varnish such as MM14 Final Varnish Gloss Finish (turps-based) or MM15 Matt Varnish (turps-based) after the water-based varnish, conservators are able to easily clean and repair the work. When the work is to be cleaned, the final varnish can be redissolved in mineral turpentine; the water-based varnish helps to protect the paint during the removal of the original final varnish. Then a new coat of final varnish is applied over the clean original water-based varnish.
This process is recommended for those artists seeking the best long-term results from their materials and most certainly recommended for exterior mural work.
****
Here is the web site link for information on varnishing and the types of varnishes available.
http://www.matisse.com.au/pages/varnish.htm
****
Getting back to Wattyl, I've used wattyl products for over 20 years. Great product. Easy to use, and more readily available then Dull coat which seems to go through periods of drought (hard to obtain)
regards
I have a store that I get testors through and havent had a problem with it being out of stock yet. Last time I just bought 3 cans. I think I have one left... I should order some more
Zordana with Space Marines I'm of the opinion a satin finish brings out the bold colours of the armour plates rather well.
Though for your more gritty Imperial Guard or fantasy minitures I suppose a more matt finish is appropiate though again satin would go well on heavy infanty and knights unless your doing NMM.
Though for your more gritty Imperial Guard or fantasy minitures I suppose a more matt finish is appropiate though again satin would go well on heavy infanty and knights unless your doing NMM.
Hmm, I don't paint space marines very often. Next time I do I might try a satin finish and see how they look
QUOTE(Zordana)
I don't like any gloss at all, unless its on gems or somesuch that should be glossy.
Ditto.
Don't look for any gloss on my Task Force Ranger army this year. Esopecially since it sounds like I'll be switching from the overpriced (and too satiny for my liking) GW to Wattyl.
I've found with the nozzles you definitely have to be careful. Even if you invert it and clear the nozzle after each spray, it eventually starts to clog. Use some paint thinners to clean the nozzle, let the nozzle dry well before using it again DO NOT USE TURPS as this softens the little spray nozzle in the head. I discovered this when I then went to use my clean nozzle and the red bit flew across the room and hid somewhere with the mices.
Not very good.
Don't then try to seal your minis with the new "improved" spout...you might as well dip the model in varnish....
But I love it. I hate the GW stuff. And any other that I have used ends up too glossy (even though it was supposed to be matt). Albeit I have not tried testors I'll be sticking with Wattyl for my game minis.
I haven't yet gotten to painting my display minis yet....about a 100 more models practice before I am going to commit to doing the full on display quality ones. Oh and that's not far away...no precious...no...
Not very good.
Don't then try to seal your minis with the new "improved" spout...you might as well dip the model in varnish....
But I love it. I hate the GW stuff. And any other that I have used ends up too glossy (even though it was supposed to be matt). Albeit I have not tried testors I'll be sticking with Wattyl for my game minis.
I haven't yet gotten to painting my display minis yet....about a 100 more models practice before I am going to commit to doing the full on display quality ones. Oh and that's not far away...no precious...no...
dull cote is the bomb! I recently started using it and I love it. Small expensive can though.
This is a "lo-fi" version of our main content. To view the full version with more information, formatting and images, please click here.