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Arithon
Well this is my latest army project. I already have over 5000-6000 points of chaos most of which are warriors of chaos and I just couldn’t go past adding more of the new miniatures to my ever growing army. So over Christmas I did receive just a few miniatures to help with this. Over the next year or so I hope to get most of this painted but I only have to get a few units and characters finished before July for the Tasmanian State Championships. Presently I have the following to add to my old army:

10 Chaos warhounds
6 old metal chaos warhounds
10 Chaos Marauder Horsemen
15 Chaos Knights
10 Chaos chosen warriors including command
2 Khorne Chaos Lord on Juggernaut
1 Chaos Nurgle Sorcerer
1 Chaos Lord on Demonic Mount
1 Wulfrik the Wanderer
1 Sigvald the Magnificent
1 Chaos Champion of Khorne

I decide I would start work on a unit of Knights first. These are great miniatures but it took me three days to put them together properly. Mainly to make sure I cleaned up mould lines and to fill in any gaps. The shields are not glued on just held in place with blue tac. I still have to add a bit more detail but are stunning miniatures and I thoroughly look forward to painting them.

Painting Chaos knights

I thought for a change I might be able to write an article on how to paint miniatures to a reasonable standard very fast. Hopefully this article will help all those trying to paint quickly.

Step one

Obviously clean up and assemble the miniature. The only concession I have made here is that I haven’t place on the shield as they make it too difficult to reach certain areas. It is important however to remove all mould lines and use some type of epoxy to seal any gaps. Any of these can ruin the best paint work (especially when using washes).

Step two

This is fairly new for me I have found by undercoating thoroughly with black. A little brush work might be required to make sure you reach all areas and allow it to dry before lightly spraying from the top with white. This helps with blending and recognises areas that make need blending light to dark in future. As shown in the photograph below.


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Step three

In this case I have used goblin green, catachan green and vmc black brown in thin layers blending through the light through to dark sections. If you already have thin paint this will happen easily as the under laying layer is already blended light to dark.


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Step four

The next three picture only show where base coats have been added. It is important to get nice even coverage in these areas because of the washes you are going to add later.

The golden metallic paint is brazen brass
The Silver metallic paint is chainmail
The horse base coat is scorched brown
The cloth/ bone is all bleached bone
The leather is shadow grey


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Step 5

This is where the washes are important. When applying the washes it is vital that you cover as much of the miniature as possible before the paint dries. You also don’t have too much water on your brush or paint for that matter. Multiple thin washes are preferable to having get lump of paint where you don’t want them.

In this case I have made a wash out of vmc red/black and vmc black brown and I applied this to the whole miniature. It also may help to us a matt medium to help the wash flow especially over the metallic surfaces. Mixture applied top left corner of palette.


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Then I washed it again with watered down delvan mud.


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Arithon
Step 6

To me the brass still looks too bright and still lacks a bit of erosion/ verde- so now add vmc emerald once again I mix it with a little bit of matte medium and only apply it mixed with watered to the brass pieces only. Mixture applied second corner bottom row ( no water added yet).


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Step 7

Now it is time to clean up and add more detail.

So far :

I have started adding more detail to the horse such as lighter sections using bestial brown.

I have cleaned up the armour on the lighter sections using vmc middlestone (yellow), goblin green and catachan green.

I have started to clean up the cloth on the rider using vmc silvergrey and vmc black brown.

I have added more highlights to the sword by darking the bottom of the balde using chaos black, vmc black brown and matt medium.

I still have to fix up the mouth area of the horse and the shadow grey but I will do that today sometime.

Anyway this is where I am up to

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Mouseketeer
These guys are looking really cool dude!!
The step by step is great! end result is awesome!
Would like to see some more pics of stuff you've done.. smile.gif Maybe even a whole army shot smile.gif

Mouse.
Colonel Doctor
Can you clarify your undercoating technique please. It is intriguing and i would like to give it a go myself.

You undercoat them fully black, then once dry, do a light coat of white with the can held directly above the model without moving it?

Essentially, the can nozzle becomes the light source yeah?

Do you only do this on heavily armoured models (a lot of reflective surface) or on all models?

Outstanding work by the way, can't wait for updates!
Arithon
QUOTE(Colonel Doctor @ Jan 15 2009, 03:36 PM) *

Can you clarify your undercoating technique please. It is intriguing and i would like to give it a go myself.

You undercoat them fully black, then once dry, do a light coat of white with the can held directly above the model without moving it?

Essentially, the can nozzle becomes the light source yeah?

Do you only do this on heavily armoured models (a lot of reflective surface) or on all models?

Outstanding work by the way, can't wait for updates!


The process seems to work on all models and I do move the can about a bit on top as well ( slight circular motion to indicate light from one direction). I have only started doing this recently but it does help reduce the number of layers need when trying to highlight. Other examples I have have used it on...I havent finished painting all these miniatures yet. these were also my first attempts at this, so I might have been a bit heavy with the white. The grainy undercoat does also help with layering- paint stays more where you want it too.
Before:
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One day after:
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Other:

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Magos_Kasen
Looks awesome, you have some great looking models. ohmy.gif
Red Dragon
Holy crudtastic!

Excellent work armata_PDT_37.gif

I was going to do my nurgle army this colour... but now I know I would not do as nice a job tongue.gif
twohooks
What are the plinths made from on the last two?
Arithon
@ twohooks

They are just wooden toy blocks you can get froma toy store it cost me $30 for 50 of them. Andrew Lum put me onto them. I just added terrain and attacked it with a knife first.

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Red Dragon
That is double gold laugh.gif
Draeth
Great great stuff. May also be the fasts way to paint spirit hosts EVER! tongue.gif
Darth.Crag
Those knights rock, looking forward to the next installment.
damnitsham
Very impressive!

I like the undercoat idea, I may have to play around with it myself sometime...
mark_logue
Impressive work.

Thanks for sharing your techniques. There is a lot of stuff I want to try after reading that.
Arithon
Just finished these this morning. I have been working on a couple of other projects in between.

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piggles
Dam, love the knights !!

How long about for each knight, I have been pre highlighting with codex grey on some orks, brushed on. Never thought to use white spray.

~piggles
Arithon
They took about a day each (so about 8 hours). I wasnt totally happy with the highlights on the green ( not enough contrast) so I redid them last night- about an hour and half each.
Red Dragon
That looks really ace. I really do love this scheme. I will have to resist copying, really hard to do but...
BeastMum
You have some fabulous ideas, I particularly like the light source with undercoat and the wooden block ones! Those knights look fantastic, well done!
Arithon
I started work on this two days ago and I have nearly finished the juggernaut(have done more since this photo I will post tomorrow). Next the rider. biggrin.gif

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Arithon
Started work on the metallics.

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Red Dragon
Very cool. I really like the way you have painted this.
Arithon
Just had a spare Khorne juggernaut laying around so I thought i would build something from the spare parts. The shield is not attached yet. I built this over the weekend once I had finsihed the first one.

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ryan
where did you get the cleaver from very nice model
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