So I've got some little details that I've done originals of (SM Shoulderpads, backpacks etc) and I'm wanting to create some form or similar that will allow me to manufacture a bunch of each with little effort.

I've tried (and am trying) making imprints and moulds using GS, but have been having some issues with it. Am I better off trying to use Fimo or similar, or am I looking to purchase and make some major mistakes with casting equipment and resin? The bits are fairly highly detailed and I would like to keep that as well (think SM metal character detail... almost)

Can anyone assist?

http://www.wargamerau.com/forum/index.php?...amp;hl=moulding

read that for some tips then there is a link in the op to go elsewhere for more info.

depending on the detail i would assume you would be needing either a vacuum or pressure chamber also to get the air bubbles out for detail of that level.

Be careful too. There's a fine line between copying stuff you've one up yourself. This is especially the case if you're copying GW parts you've modified.

I'd go Pinkysil by barnes for ease of use and superior detail capturing abilities.

http://www.barnes.com.au/catalog/product_i...roducts_id=1845

I'd use Barnes 4PU for the polyurethane resin to make them from. It is a good trade-off between viscosity (which improves accuracy) and pot life (which allows you to get rid of air bubbles) with a short demold time (allows you to cast up lots in a day).

http://www.barnes.com.au/catalog/product_i...roducts_id=2168

I did a quick and dirty step-by-step guide on this Forum in the painting, modelling and terrain section somewhere.....

[edit]

Beaten to it by Sagan.
Use an old brush to paint the Pinkysil into all the detail, then pour the remainder to fill the mold.
Vacuum and pressure can be done, but not for under about $400

Yeah, staying way the heck away from that line. I don't need to be spanked by GW Legal (I have other people I pay for that)

Thanks BP, I have checked out your thread previously, and made happy little sounds regarding how simply you've explained it, and wonderfully for those single sided pieces.

$400 hmmm, certainly less than I have spent on the hobby before, but way more than I was hoping for this...

Anyone know anything about making a 'Stamp' (think novelty cookie cutter) to punch into dough (GS) to create a malleable cookie? ie design to wrap around over the top of the shoulderpad etc...

That is a rough quote for a pressure pot and a 2.5 horsepower compressor. To use vacuum, add another $350 to that for the pump.

For basic stuff, vacuum and pressure are not needed, just use an old paintbrush to push the silicone into the detail of your master.

In that basic thread I made, The total cost of the Klean Klay (plasticine) and the Pinkysil would be under $20.

To make a two part mold out of that design is simplicity itself.

Just find the natural mold line from an original item, or one half of the item to be made into a mold, and raise the Klean Klay to that point, ensuring that the Klay is pushed hard up against the original model and using a modelling knife, cut away the Klay to make a 90degree (or level) angle.

Add a raised section of Klay to make the funnel in the mold, which will later be used to pour the polyurethane.

Use the end of a pen or pencil (or large paintbrush) to push into the Klay around the original item (but not touching the item) to make holes that will be later become nipples to centre the two parts, they will ensure they go accurately together and there will be minimal flash.

Pour the Pinkisil into the top half of the mold, ensuring that there are no air bubbles by using an old paintbrush to paint the Pinkysil into all the details, wait for it to cure, and turn the mold over, remove the Klay. Spray with one of Barnes, Stoner Rapid Release sprays (this will ensure the Pinky will not stick to itself) and add the Klay to where the funnel Klay was, to give you the other half of the funnel. Pour the Pinky over the other side of the original to make the other half; again using another old paintbrush to ensure that there are no airbubbles and accuracy (your first paintbrush will be buggered from the silicone in the bristles). When fully cured, you should have a two part mold, with a pouring spout underneath.

Simple huh?

I'll find an interesting object and make a Tutorial on how to do what I've just tried to explain sometime before Christmas.....

[edit] to clean up my spelling and to try and make it a little easier to understand

[edit 2]

A photo to show what I was trying to clumsily explain:


As you can see, the two halves of the mold were made using the horn on his head, right nipple and right knee as the natural part line for making the mold. This model is slightly easier to make, as it has a flat bottom to it and the step to make the pouring funnel or spout is not needed. The base of the model was hard-up against one side of the mold formwork to give the flat base.

from here:
http://www.paint-sculpt.com/tutorials/mold...l-overview.html

Damn BP, you make this look all too easy

Thanks, I'll have to try this.

It is easy, and can be done with stuff from around the home.

Plasticine (or clay) and a pizza box / Lego for the formwork?

How easy is that?

You just have to remember that you are working kinda upside-down and the resin is poured from the underside (unless doing a slush cast), and undercuts (like a chin or sword pointing down, or now upwards in the mold) will create an air bubble, unless you either cut an airway to the undercut part, or pour a small amount of resin into the mold and swirl it around to coat all the undercut parts of a mold (a kind of slush casting), wait for it to cure, then do the final fill of the mold.

Or go the pressure / vacuum route.

Yeah, I definitely expect to have some truly spectacular failures as I start out... As long as it improves over time though.

Expect to see a few more cries for help when I just can't get something to work properly