Nurgle Demon Prince
09 August 2011 | Luke YatesGíday all, Iíve had a few people ask for a bit of a painting tute of some kind, so I thought Iíd take the chance to do one on a commission model: a Nurgle Demon Prince Ė Nurgle being something I have some experience in painting. Having been given 5 hours to paint this character model, I needed to get a good result within a tighter timeframe than Iíd usually aim for. This made it a bit of a challenge but also a perfect candidate for a painting tutorial. All colours used are from the GW range.
This is one of the new Finecast models and it was very easy to put together and I didnít notice any miscasts. One of the smaller chains broke off, however it glued back on, no dramas. There were a few occasions during painting that I was sure something else was going to break off, but as the Finecast material has some give it simply bent for a moment but left no lasting damage. So, to the painting: after basing with some rubble and grit, I undercoated it black and set to work.
Using a large flat brush, the model was drybrushed with Tin Bitz, then Boltgun Metal. This was then washed with old style Black Ink and, when dry, further washed with a mix of watered down Brown/Green and Black Inks. These glossy inks will give a sheen to the model, but as I intend on matt coating it once finished, this wonít be a problem.
The armour plating was base coated with a Catachan Green/Gretchin Green mix and highlighted with Gretchin Green. The reason for using the foundation colour in the mix was to increase coverage on one pass, keeping the time limit in mind. Leaving the armour to dry, I painted the pipes and base coated any cloth with Charadon Granite and Adeptus Battlegrey respectively. I like using Charadon for pipes/armour joints/cloth as itís a strong, but fairly neutral, so it wonít catch the eye too much in contrast with the finished model as a whole.
The entire model was washed again, this time using a mix of Black/Brown/Green Inks and floor polish. The floor polish gives the ink mix more flow, smooths the coverage, and it leaves a great impression of blended paintwork, but itís obviously much quicker and easier to do. I intentionally didnít add it to the first washes as I wanted a patchy look to the early stages of the metal areas but I did want smoothness on the green armour.
Once dry, the skin was painted with a Tallarn Flesh/Tanned Flesh mix, adding Rotting Flesh for the first highlight and then more Rotting for a final highlight. Using the natural lines of the model made highlighting easy, basically overbrushing the details. However, at this stage, care was taken not to get any onto the metal or armour areas, as there were now basically finished. The flesh mix was quite potent, again thanks to the foundation Tallarn Flesh. The skin was now left for the time being, but was to be washed down at a later point.
A quick highlight was applied to the pipes and tabard cloth by mixing the basecoat with Dheneb Stone. Dheneb is great for mixing a highlight as itís off white, but still strong. I used to use Kommando Khaki, but thatís like adding dirty water Ė itís a very weak, thin colour, so I try to avoid it where possible. More Dheneb was added to Adeptus to highlight the tabard.
Any bones/horns were painted now with Khemri Brown/Charadon. This mix is a great basecoat for any skulls/bones/horns on your models as itís a neutral colour which can be highlighted in many ways to give differing bone effects Ė great if you have a skull (what I call ďdead boneĒ) and horns (ďlive boneĒ) on the same model. Desert Yellow or Graveyard Earth (again quite a thin paints) can both be used to give different effects, as can Bestial Brown or even straight to a thin highlight with Bleached Bone.
The pouches containing who knows what were base coated with Dark Flesh, then highlighted with Dark Flesh and Dheneb. Youíll note that Iíll always use the same base colour with a lighter colour mixed in for highlights. This has a few benefits Ė firstly, it maintains the same colour tone throughout the details being painted, which gives a more ďcoherentĒ finish and also itís easy to chuck a bit of something into the pallet with the left over basecoat colour and use that to highlight.
Again, the whole model (yep, the lot!) was washed with mix of Green/Devlan/Black Washes and floor polish. I used the Citadel Washes at this stage for ďsofterĒ shading. These washes are great, and I 100% recommend two thin coats as opposed to one thicker one. This is an often touted method, and initially I was sceptical, but the result is well worth the drying time. Again, the polish was used to ensure a smooth finish to the wash as it will eliminate most of the pooling which, in my opinion, can ruin what is an otherwise nicely painted model. Devlan Mud is the biggest culprit here.
With the majority of the model now finished, it was on to the details. Boils and pimples were picked out with Desert Yellow, then dotted with Rotting Flesh, then washed with Flesh Ink. Whilst Iíve tried not to paint this model the same as my personal Nurgle models in any way, this is one detail that I knew I didnít want to change. After painting many pimples over the years, I find this to be the best way to get a gross effect.
To add some weathering and another spot colour, some metal areas were washed with Hawk Turquoise and then a thin wash of Skull White. Once completely dry, these areas were very lightly drybrushed Tin Bitz, to represent corrosion in the recesses but not on the prominent areas. This can be seen the best on the shoulder pad, and also the re-breather looking detail on the chest.
The sword needed some further attention to differentiate it from the rest of the metal on the Demon Prince and so I washed it several times with green, brown, black inks. Making sure they were thinned out to just leave a slight tinge with each pass, and waiting until the previous coat was completely dry before adding the next. Also, the washes were applied haphazardly and didnít cover the entire area Ė just certain patches. As this is a Nurgle model, this will give it a diseased, battle-worn look. To give some contrast, it was lightly over-brushed with Boltgun, but only very lightly.
The chains on the loins and weapon were washed twice with Vermin Brown. The reason for two washes is different to the previous reasons: 1) the paint was very, very thin when applied and 2) it gives a more random looking finish, which suits the way rust appears in real life. I was tempted to use weathering powders instead of paint, however since this is a gaming model and will be transported a lot, I decided that the Vermin would be a more sensible choice.
The skinned victim on the right arm was base coated with a mix Rotting Flesh and Elf Flesh. As before, I chucked some more Elf Flesh into the pallet and used this to highlight the edges. The hair was painted a brown colour, itís not important which. The skin was then washed randomly with Thrakka Green, Devlan Mud and Orgryn Flesh Washes. As these are so thin from the pot (which I donít necessarily like) you really canít ďover washĒ. The only exception is if you let it pool, as I mentioned earlier.
Just a quick note on why I used so many washes in this model, which is not usually my style: the gamer I painted this for wanted an effect he could achieve himself on the remainder of his Nurgle models. Washes are almost foolproof and easy to use, and so will be welcomed by the client, Iím sure. They also blend things nicely, so all of the disparate looking areas are pulled together by the washes. The time factor was also a consideration, but it was more about the fluff of a Nurgle Demon Prince. If I was painting an Eldar Autarch, I doubt any washes of this scale would have been used.
The model completed, the base was painted as per previous models in the army Ė giving a distinctive red earth look. A few details on the base were picked out using the same techniques above where applicable.
So there you go, a Nurgle Demon Prince in 5 hours. Iím fairly happy with the result, as I am a notoriously slow painter. Iíd be happy to hear any thoughts (good or bad) about this paint job, or answer any questions if anyone has any. This is by no means the definitive painting guide for a Nurgle model, but Iíve tried to show a couple of different techniques and the results that can be achieved by using such techniques.
If youíd like to see more of what Iíve painted, please head to my Facebook page (details in my sig). If I get asked to do another one, I can assure you the pics will be progress shots, and better quality.